Noche Buena: Mexico's Christmas Beer
Mexico, the world's largest beer exporter, boasts a rich history of brewing, but one of its most cherished brews is exclusive to the country and available for only a few weeks each year. This beer, known as Noche Buena, translates to 'holy night' or 'Christmas Eve', is a beloved tradition that has become synonymous with the festive season in Mexico.
The story of Noche Buena begins in the early 20th century when industrialisation in Germany devastated artisanal breweries, forcing many displaced brewers to travel the world and set up breweries in new locations, including Mexico. Small-scale European-founded breweries opened across the country, producing top-fermenting ales. In 1875, Swiss brewer Santiago Graf introduced lager, kick-starting Mexico's industrial beer production. One of the earliest beers produced was Victoria in 1906, which is now Mexico's oldest continuously brewed beer.
The legend of Noche Buena's origin dates back to 1924 when German master brewer Otto Neumaier created the beer as a special Christmas house reserve in Veracruz for himself and his friends. This beer, Mexico's first Bock, quickly gained popularity for its intense and unusual flavours. In 1938, the Orizaba brewery released Noche Buena to the public as a seasonal specialty for the holidays, and the tradition has endured ever since.
Noche Buena's unique flavour profile, with caramelly and burnt-coffee notes, sets it apart from Mexico's more common lighter beers. Its robust 5.9% ABV and dark-brown colour make it a perfect complement to Mexico's seasonal dishes like turkey, romeritos (wild herbs steeped in mole), and bacalao (codfish).
The beer's popularity grew in part due to its limited availability during the Christmas season, creating a sense of mystique and desirability. Today, Noche Buena is a common tradition for Mexicans to buy in large quantities and offer to friends and family during the holidays. It's often enjoyed with festive piñatas and is available in local cantinas, bars, and Oxxo convenience stores across the country.
However, finding Noche Buena outside Mexico is challenging. Heineken, the current owner of the Moctezuma brewery where Noche Buena was first created, briefly exported the beer to the US in 2011 but stopped in 2018 due to lack of demand. Despite this, Heineken's rival, Anheuser-Busch, introduced a similar beer called Noche Especial in the US, further highlighting the popularity of this Christmas tradition.
As the Christmas season unfolds in Mexico, families gather for feasts and posada celebrations, and bottles of Noche Buena take centre stage under the starry night sky, toasting to the joy and traditions of the season.
